“You'd probably see some good results from Morpheus."
This is what a dermatologist told me recently when, during a routine body-check visit, I'd grilled him about what I could do to my face to gently mitigate some changes I'd noticed in the five years since a traumatic birth experience, the COVID-19 pandemic, a litany of hormonal fluctuations, and a general sense of unease about the world in which we live.
Morpheus is, of course, Morpheus8, a slightly ominous-sounding fractional treatment that was brought to market in 2020 and is largely considered to be among the gold standards of non-surgical skin remodeling—i.e., more collagen production, addressing mild laxity, treating acne scarring, fine lines, and under-eye circles in one shot. (Kim Kardashian does it, so, ya know.)
I'd heard of Morpheus but had never considered it since my perspective on aesthetic upgrades has always been fairly binary: filler or facelift, full stop. I fundamentally understood there were loads of effective in-between procedures targeted to specific concerns but I am nothing if not a seeker of instant gratification and wasn’t really trying to hear any “you need six treatments to see a difference” messaging. But I also had a few unfortunate bouts with bits of facial filler that I ultimately had removed and was a decade or two out from a deep-plane facelift, so I was intrigued.
Proponents of Morphepus8 online swore their skin looked more vibrant, revived, and even lifted in certain areas, albeit subtly. But—because it was the internet I was reading—I was also a little spooked when, on Reddit, I was inundated with less than jubilant stories. The takeaway wasn’t so much that the treatment posed significant long-term risks, but more about mistakes that were very possible, as the treatment’s efficacy largely lies in the hands of ultra-trained and highly skilled practitioners. Would you want someone who doesn’t know what they’re doing use the advanced gun-like tool to create microscopic holes on your face? Yeah, no. If you’re interested in the treatment, do your research and choose a licensed, reputable, highly experienced practitioner. Okay, I’ll consider this, I said to myself.
But when Glamour was invited to try something called Salmon Polynucleotides Rejuvenation with Morpheus8—aka the viral salmon sperm facial—I was extra intrigued. After doing some deeper research and speaking with my dermatologist, I learned that the topical application of salmon sperm (yep) can be used as a groundbreaking add-on to advanced microneedling to help reverse the signs of aging, to promote collagen growth and skin renewal, and accelerate the healing process from the Morpheus8 (see: the aforementioned microscopic holes.).
My treatment was done at The Spa by Equinox Hotels in New York City's Hudson Yards neighborhood. Now, I'm no spa expert, but anyone who is will probably know that Equinox is among the most beloved. (I have a highly discerning friend who got a litany of pre-wedding treatments exclusively done there, so on that front, I was extra convinced). Dr. Jennifer Tsai, an ophthalmologist and co-owner of New York's modern practice Line of Sight who is also an expert in aesthetics, would be performing my treatment and I immediately felt comfortable chatting with her and confident that I was in the right hands. The procedure and results are ripe for discussion, but first, some housekeeping:
Who can benefit from a salmon sperm facial?
According to Dr. Tsai, the combination of salmon polynucleotides and regular microneedling or more advanced formats like Morpheus8 can benefit those looking for enhancements that will be noticeable, yes, but not ultra-dramatic the way surgery or a ton of injectables might be. Overall rejuvenation is the goal, with issues like fine lines, early-stage sagging, large pores or acne scars being targeted. For me, my main concern was mild laxity in my lower face, some out-of-nowhere hollows under my eyes, and general dullness.
How many sessions are needed?
One of the reasons I'd been hesitant to try Morpheus8—even with the salmon polynucleotides rejuvenation—is because I'd read that in order to see optimal results, it's suggested that patients book three sessions spaced four to six weeks apart. Dr. Tsai confirmed it, but also said that results can often vary based on individual needs and results depending on what you're looking to improve. I felt good about starting with one session, but certainly had it in the back of my mind that I might be back for more. As for waiting longer than four weeks? You can, but it might slow down collagen production and take longer to see results, according to Dr. Tsai.
What exactly are salmon polynucleotides?
Essentially, polynucleotides are fragments of DNA that are typically derived from salmon sperm that can enhance the body's natural renewal process. “These are essentially short chains of amino acids,” said Dr. Joshua Zeichner, Director of Cosmetic and Clinical Research at the Kimberly and Eric J. Waldman Department of Dermatology at Mount Sinai in New York City. “They've been reported to have beneficial effects in treating aging skin, as salmon sperm extracts have been shown to improve hydration, plumpness, texture, and wrinkles.”
To reiterate, we're talking about topical salmon sperm, not the injectable version you might have heard about on social media, as those are not FDA approved here in the United States.
Why opt for a salmon sperm add-on after microneedling?
To pat them on alone wouldn't be unlike applying an ultra-strong moisturizer, but when combined with a treatment like Morpheus8, it takes hydration and recovery to another level. “When microneedling, tiny holes are created in the skin which provide a pathway to penetrate through the outer skin layer,” says Dr. Zeichner. “Ultimately better penetration should translate into a more effective treatment.”
The actual treatment
Okay, on to the good stuff! After about ten minutes of chatting with Dr. Tsai about what to expect and what my main concerns are, I slapped on a headband and was given numbing cream to my face and neck that sat for about 30 minutes (during which time I took full advantage of the goodies in Equinox Spa’s sun-soaked waiting room which included tea, spa water, and snacks.)
In the treatment room, I laid back and Dr. Tsai got to work. Each press of the tool lasted about a full second and we did two rounds across my face and neck, for a total of about 40 minutes. I know what you’re wondering, since one of the main talking points as far as Morpheus8 goes is the pain.
Did it hurt?
Yeah, it did. Not terribly surprising given that a tool is making a series of consistent punctures to delicate skin, but I often brag about my high threshold for pain and I was wincing the entire way though. “You said you wanted a snatched jawline,” Dr. Tsai said jokingly, but honestly, facts.
After the Morpheus8, Dr. Tsai applied the salmon sperm which—thanks to its cooling and calming gel format—felt like manna from heaven. This specifically is said to speed up the healing process and provide hydration on steroids.
What to expect post-treatment
Dr. Tsai explained before we began that my face would be red after the procedure—likely very red. An understatement to be sure. I’d seen post-treatment photos online that ran the gamut from mildly flushed to angry and inflamed and I’d say mine was closer to the latter. I felt no pain, just heat. I was assured the extreme pigmentation would subside in a few hours and it did. About an hour after I got home (in a taxi wearing a giant hood and swathed in a face-covering scarf, in case you care) my face looked as though I’d been out in the sun for a bit too long without sunscreen.
By the time the evening rolled around, my skin was back to normal. My naked eye didn’t notice any overt swelling, but I did see a candid photo of myself about a week later at Glamour's annual Women of the Year event and the bottom of my face—the area we most heavily treated—absolutely looked puffier than usual. This adds up—we basically induced trauma to the dermis and it was responding and healing, which takes time. A week after that, though, I felt completely back to normal and patiently awaited results.
Three to five months later
I was told it would take a minimum of three months to see results and I can honestly say I’m surprised by how effective this treatment was for my particular concerns. At the three-month mark, my skin visibly looked more glowy, likely thanks to the increase of collagen production. My jawline area appeared slightly sharper and the subtle laxity around my mouth seemed to have improved. Another pleasant byproduct? Though it never bothered me too much, some mild acne scarring on both cheeks from courses of Accutane when I was a teenager was noticeably smoother.
My honest impression
If you’re looking for instant results—or even very dramatic ones—one round of Morpheus8 with Salmon Polynucleotides Rejuvenation is probably not going to do it for you. I can’t speak to the efficacy of the three recommended sessions yet (and yes, I’ve decided to go back for a second treatment) but I appreciate the visible, if subtle, improvements. At approximately $1,400 per session, the procedure doesn't come cheap but I do feel it's a worthy investment for people like me who are starting to notice subtle signs of aging but aren't ready for full-on plastic surgery nor want to mess around with fillers.
