I’m a huge proponent of at-home laser hair removal—I started using these types of skin care devices a few years ago and have never looked back—but my enthusiasm is often met with some skepticism from friends who want the full story before dishing out a few hundred dollars to give it a whirl themselves. Some even regale me with stories about friends who saw absolutely no results. So what’s the real deal?
Does laser hair removal work?
Yes, laser hair removal devices really do work to reduce unwanted hair in a number of treatment areas on the body and face, depending on your skin type and hair color. Whether it’s an at-home device or medical-grade, laser hair removal works by seeking out the pigment, or melanin, at the base of the hair follicle, says Ellen Marmur, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at Marmur Medical in New York City. Once the laser locates the hair follicle root, which houses your hair’s stem cells, the laser then converts its light energy to heat, damaging the hair root.
I’ve seen the results of this process firsthand, and dermatologists I spoke with point to research and studies that support my own experience. “Laser hair removal can be quite effective in reducing growth and eventually making it so the hair follicles do not produce hair at all,” says Corey L. Hartman, founder of Skin Wellness Dermatology in Birmingham, Alabama.
The big caveat: At-home laser hair removal devices are not optimal for people with sensitive skin or skin of color, says Dr. Hartman. “Many at-home devices cannot distinguish between dark skin and dark hair, which would render the device useless,” he says. At-home laser hair removal also doesn’t generally work on light hair—blonde, gray, white, and some shades of red—because the laser works by seeking out pigment (the hair follicle) and then damaging it. This requires some contrast between skin and hair color.
There’s also a common misconception that these treatments are a one-and-done situation, says Rina Weimann, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at Schweiger Dermatology Group in King of Prussia, Pennsylvania. But laser hair removal is best thought of as a method of body hair reduction rather than hair elimination. Even though laser hair removal is more permanent than waxing or shaving, the only truly permanent hair removal is electrolysis.
How long does laser hair removal take to work?
“Lasers work best on the hair follicles present in the anagen, or growth, stage of the hair cycle,” explains Dr. Weimann. “As a result, multiple treatments—typically four to six weeks apart—are recommended to achieve appropriate results.”
Exactly how many sessions you need to go hair-free depends on a variety of factors, including skin tone, the type of hair and body location, the type of laser, the settings and power that you’re using with the laser, and even the time of year or your hormonal status, the dermatologists told Glamour. In general, expect to need at least three sessions to begin to see results and closer to 12 for full results. Once you’ve completed the number of sessions outlined in your device’s user manual, you’ll enter a maintenance phase, which typically includes touch-up treatments every one to three months, depending on your body’s personal hair growth cycle.
Do dermatologists recommend at-home laser hair removal?
If your skin color and hair color fit the bill, I’ve spoken to more than a half-dozen dermatologists who say at-home laser hair removal devices (both IPL devices, or intense pulsed light, and diode lasers) are safe for use on various areas of the body (legs, bikini line, bikini area, underarms, and even facial hair like the upper lip) and mostly absent of any side effects. However, for home use, you should always look for laser hair removal devices that have been FDA-cleared, which means they’ve passed the FDA requirements and are presumably safer. And if you do experience any side effects (blisters, scabbing, hyperpigmentation, or hypopigmentation) in the treated area, contact your dermatologist right away. Below are editor-tested and FDA-approved at-home laser hair removal devices worth shopping.
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Is laser hair removal better at home or in a salon?
Efficacy varies greatly between at-home hair removal devices and medical-grade laser technology used in professional laser hair removal, says Dr. Hartman. Not to mention, professional treatments performed in dermatologist’s offices are completed by skilled providers with extensive training in laser devices and a better understanding of who is an appropriate candidate for the treatment to help minimize any negative potential consequences, which can include permanent hyperpigmentation or burns, says Dr. Weimann.
Medical-grade treatments can also more safely and effectively help remove hair for patients with darker skin tones, says Dr. Hartman. This is because these lasers have a broader range of wavelengths, or energy levels.
Finally, at-home laser devices typically result in less long-lasting results compared with professional in-office laser devices, says Dr. Weimann, pointing to a 2023 study that suggests at-home laser devices provide at least 30% less hair removal compared with professional devices performed in-office.
The bottom line
At-home laser hair removal can be a very convenient and more affordable option for some people—namely in those with light skin and dark hair—in both small and larger areas of the body. But if you have any hesitation that laser hair removal treatment may not be right for you, it’s best to consult your board-certified dermatologist prior to diving in head first.
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