After suffering from post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, I recently became interested in finding the best laser treatments to even out my skin tone. In my preliminary research, I quickly learned that some lasers can be dangerous for me to use. I’m Asian-American, and although my skin is a light olive tone, I’m a Fitzpatrick 4 on the Fitzpatrick scale—a numerical classification used by dermatologists to categorize skin tone and color—which puts me at higher risk of damage from certain lasers. Popular treatments like intense pulsed light (IPL) and broadband light (BBL) therapy can be dangerous for BIPOC and darker skin tones.
According to Shawnda Dorantes, MSN, APRN, FNP-C, of Beauty Lounge Med Spa in Southern California, laser skin care was initially designed for lighter skin tones, and can damage more melanated skin, potentially causing burns, hyperpigmentation, hypopigmentation, or even scarring.
“Historically, laser treatments weren’t always inclusive when it came to different skin tones, particularly for melanated skin,” says Dorantes. “Lasers work by targeting pigment, so with darker skin, there’s naturally more melanin and pigment. Some lasers can’t distinguish well between the pigment in the skin and the treatment target—like hair follicles, age spots, or blood vessels. This can lead to complications.”
Thankfully, in recent years, lasers have been developed to treat all skin tones. However, if you’re a BIPOC person looking for the best laser treatments, it can be complicated and confusing to determine which is best for different skin care concerns. According to Fred Goudy, aesthetician and laser specialist at VITAHL Medical Aesthetics in Chicago, it’s best to consult dermatologists who have experience working with melanated skin types. The best rule of thumb? “Never let an office use an IPL laser on melanated skin,” says Goudy.
Ahead, aestheticians and dermatologists break down everything you need to know about the best laser treatments for BIPOC and melanated skin—including purpose, costs, downtime, and more.
NdYag lasers (Laser Genesis, ClearLift)
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What it is: This gateway laser is a very gentle option for anyone new to laser treatments. “Laser Genesis is the most comfortable of all laser treatments,” says Goudy. The machine gently emits laser energy to warm up the upper dermis and boost collagen production, while also soothing facial redness by targeting capillaries.
What it’s best for: Over a series of treatments, you’ll see an ongoing improvement in the quality of your skin, including smoother skin tone and texture, fewer fine lines, and smaller pores. It can also be used on active acne breakouts. “Laser Genesis uses heat to kill bacteria and decrease the inflammation causing the redness,” Goudy says. “Not only will Laser Genesis kill the bacteria and keep acne at bay, but will also stimulate collagen which helps skin cells renew.”
Average cost: $1,100 for a series of five treatments
How many treatments you’ll need: Because this facial is so gentle, a series of five or six treatments is recommended to maximize results, and you can come back as often as every two weeks rather than the typical four-to-six-week treatment cycle for stronger lasers.
What to expect during treatment: You’ll feel a gentle warmth from the hand piece as it skims over your skin. A typical session lasts about 30 minutes.
Is there downtime? There’s zero downtime. In fact, you’ll walk out with an instant radiant glow, making it the perfect facial for before a big event.
Pico lasers (Pico Genesis, PicoSure, PicoWay, PicoPlus)
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What it is: This nonablative laser was originally developed for tattoo removal but is now used to treat a wide variety of skin conditions, especially involving pigmentation. Pico refers to the speed at which the laser fires, in a picosecond, delivering ultrashort energy pulses which are safe for all skin tones.
What it’s best for: Treating sun damage and hyperpigmentation including freckles, melasma, and age spots. “Pico Genesis works well for any type of benign pigmentation,” Goudy says. “The darker the spot, the easier it is for the laser to treat.”
Average cost: $1,450 for a series of three treatments
How many treatments you’ll need: It varies depending on the severity of your concerns. Some people might require just one or two treatments, while others may need more to achieve optimal results.
What to expect during treatment: The snap, crackle, and pop sound is accompanied by zaps that feel like a rubber-band snap. It’s uncomfortable but not too painful, and numbing isn’t necessary. It only takes about 20 minutes to treat the full face, with an additional pass over any areas of concern.
Is there downtime? There’s minimal downtime with this laser. You might experience minor swelling or redness that should subside within 24 hours. Treated pigmentation should darken and flake off within a week. This laser tightens pores so small breakouts are a potential side effect.
Erbium YAG
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What it is: This noninvasive fractional laser targets the outer layers of skin, evening out skin tone and smoothing fine lines. “The laser emits short pulses of energy that target water molecules in the skin, causing them to heat up and break down,” says Dorantes. “Think of it as a skin-refreshing treatment that reveals a smoother, brighter complexion.”
What it’s best for: Improving skin texture, reducing fine lines, treating sun damage, and evening out acne scars.
Average cost: $800 to $1,000 for a single full-face treatment
How many treatments you’ll need: Some clients see results with just one treatment, but Dorantes recommends three to four sessions, spaced a few weeks apart, for optimal long-lasting results.
What to expect during treatment: Dorantes applies a topical anesthetic for around 30 minutes, and the treatment itself takes 20 to 30 minutes. She describes the warm tingling feeling as “tiny little kisses from the sun.” It shouldn’t be painful after numbing.
Is there downtime? You’ll look sunburned for a few days, followed by minor peeling, so using sunscreen and staying out of the sun is especially important for the first couple of weeks after treatment, so as not to damage the fresh new skin.
Resurfacing lasers (Clear + Brilliant, Halo, Fraxel)
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What it is: “Resurfacing lasers target water in the skin to stimulate an overall skin cell renewal,” says Kiran Mian, DO, FAAD, medical and aesthetic dermatologist at Hudson Dermatology & Laser. “They emit channels of thermal energy, which stimulates our skin to create new collagen and elastin, smoothing out fine lines and tightening pores.”
What it’s best for: Dr. Mian recommends resurfacing lasers for those in their thirties and older who are looking for a collagen boost and to kickstart the cell renewal process, which slows down with age. These lasers are an all-purpose skin refresh, mitigating sun damage, smoothing fine lines and wrinkles, improving skin laxity, tightening the appearance of pore size, and brightening the skin.
Average cost: $600 (Clear + Brilliant) to $1,500 (Halo and Fraxel) per treatment
How many treatments you’ll need: Dr. Mian recommends one to three treatments for the best results.
What to expect during treatment: “For these procedures we will usually apply some sort of numbing cream to make the procedure more comfortable,” Dr. Mian says. After numbing, the procedure takes between 15 to 25 minutes and feels mildly prickly but shouldn’t be too painful.
Is there downtime? Right after the treatment, you’ll experience redness and your skin will feel warm. Over the next few days, you will develop a dry, sandpaper texture as the old skin gradually flakes off, revealing fresh skin underneath. Any downtime with flaky skin should resolve within a week, and you’ll see maximum results after six weeks, when new collagen and elastin forms, creating a tightening, smoothing effect.
